How do you plant perennials?
Dig a hole slightly larger than the woodfibre pot or balled rootball size, but no deeper. If it is a plant that likes to stay on the drier side (such as lavender), make the hole slightly shallower than the root ball so the surface of the rootball sits proud of the ground and use organic matter around the plant to stop water pooling on the base of the plant.
Water the hole and if the woodfibre pot or rootball doesn't seem moist pre-soak the pot or hessian contained rootball until it is saturated (no more bubbles rise to the surface).
There is normally no need to add compost to the hole if you have an established garden with healthy plants already growing. If you have a newbuild property or poor growth to existing plans chances are that your whole flowerbed needs improving with organic matter.
Place the pot or rootball in the hole. You can remove the hessian sacking it came in, or just remove the staple/twine and open the top once it's in the ground so the plant is free. The roots will easily grow through and the hessian will decompose, as will the woodfibre pots. Back fill the surrounding area with the dug soil. Do not firm the soil down hard! Roots need air and water and hard compacted soil prevents them from getting both.
Once planted water the plant in well and then water again whenever the soil starts to dry out under the surface, being careful not to overwater.
Mulching with something like woodchips around the plant after watering will help the soil to retain the moisture in hot weather. The perennial's foliage will die off in the winter and the plant will regrow through the mulch in the spring!
When to plant perennials in the UK?
Perennial plants can be planted out in the garden or in pots from spring, through the summer, to autumn. During dry weather and especially during the summer much closer attention needs to be given to watering in the first year.
If planting in hot weather, cut the foliage and flowers back. Your new plant will not be taking up much water until established so may struggle if the leaves lose more water than the roots can absorb. For the strongest result do not allow to flower or at least to set seed in the first year.
Where to plant perennials?
Check the plant info at the bottom of the page for the best place to position your new plant. If it prefers sun and you plant it in a north facing flowerbed next to a wall don't expect it to thrive or flower.
Pay attention to the soil. if it is heavy clay, incorporate organic matter such as compost to the soil before planting your perennial, preferably to the whole flowerbed. This will improve the soil by buffering it's water and nutrient holding ability. It is preferable to not just plonk compost in the bottom of the hole as it will not improve the overall condition of the soil surrounding your new plant. Do not add a layer of gravel or grit to the bottom of the hole as this will merely cause the perched water table to be higher. It will not improve drainage.
How do you care for perennial plants?
Cut back untidy foliage in the spring (you can leave the clippings on the flower bed to allow the nutrients to recycle into the soil). Divide every 3 to 5 years as the centre dies out and replant your extra plants! Perennials come back every year. Some are longer living than others.
Should perennials be fertilised?
The vast majority of garden soils contain plenty of nutrients, but if your garden is in a newly built development there is a good chance a thin layer of topsoil has been added on top of infertile subsoil. if that is the case, compost, soil improver or well rotted manure can be spread on the flower bed and dug in, or alternatively for those short of time or energy, organic fertiliser such as our own special organic mix of bone meal, hoof and horn and vinaase that is an organic, sustainable alternative to the John Innes formula, can be sprinkled around the plant with some compost added to the planting hole.
